Early unseen works by well-known artists.

Episode 5, Woody van Amen, Electric Chair, assemblage. 160 x 93 x 100 cm, Rijkscollectie

Past in the present 5, editor Leonor Faber-Jonker

Not one, but two items from an apartheid-era dining car: a spoon turned souvenir; a litter 

bag turned wrapping paper.

Van de wieg tot het graf, contribution Woody van Amen

Beat Generation, Woody van Amen, Ted Joans, Cocky van Amen, 1996

Contributions by Leonor Faber-Jonker:

Tricks of the light

Simulacrum 5, Duck

editor, Beam Contrechoc

Textile Publications 5:  Ongarments

Editor Contrechoc

Publication trousers

What is the publishing difference between a dress shape and a 

trouser shape? A dress form is much more “united surface. A 

trouser shape is much more twice cylinder, with a connecting 

upper cylinder. Pants were once invented to protect legs when 

riding a horse. That was the time when the invention of horse 

fighting was enough to conquer the world. From which it can be 

learned that something interesting like pants can be developed 

from something as negative as conquering the world.

The trouser legs were once loose leg protectors. When those leg 

protectors are connected with a "crossing", the pants are created.

Pants and a dress both take gravity into account, which a book 

doesn't. To keep the text legible, the direction of gravity is important. There is an above and below.

Unlike the “openness of a book the ongarment text is legible and 

illegible. Not all surfaces can be surveyed at once. A text can run or 

even disappear under a seam. Is this a problem? Well, if it is 

assumed that one reads the text. Not if one thinks that “reading a 

text” is some sort of ideal situation. But the question is whether a 

text – even in a book or a newspaper – is ever really read. What is 

“reading”? Reading presupposes understanding, in all the meaning 

layers, the superficial layers as well as the deeper layers and the 

layers that even the author doesn't realize, and also the layers that 

arise from the reactions to the text and how the text develops. 

relates in history. Really reading a text takes years and never ends. 

Then, once the text has been read, more and more parts are 

quickly forgotten. Given these two observations, it does not seem 

to be a problem anymore that the text cannot be read in its 

entirety on an ongarment publication.

So pants, trousers – not to conquer the world.

Besides the curves that hide the text – on these trousers there is 

also a pattern that makes pentagonal holes everywhere. This 

pattern is intended to accommodate climate change. This is an 

incredibly cool pants. Coping with climate change cannot be done 

with a book. But a book does have another advantage. The choice 

of direction within the gravitational axis is rather important: is the 

text readable for the wearer of the pants? Only if the text is upside 

down for the rest of the world. So, the pants prove the 

unbridgeable gap between the self and the rest, the book, on the 

other hand, does not. The book is perhaps a more democratic 

everyone’s friend, the publication pants are more loyal to you.


See the pants in action:


Studio Findings 3 Contribution by Lula Valletta

Contribution Woody van Amen: Ted Joans 125 WAYS TO SEX, 1964/ Woody van Amen  Sex Bom, 1965

Editor Marina Toeters



Fashion Tech Farm


21: Some of R&D projects of my garments are so 

complex that they are totally beyond my level of 


22: Our latest book on smart textiles is especially 

designed to be readable even by a modestly intelligent knitting machine.

23: The circular knitting machine was happily 

producing closed loop Fashion models on the fly.

24: We always care for a politically correct layout 

of business in the Fashion Tech Farm. Therefore: the 

low tech can be found on the roof, and the high end 

in the cellar.

25: Shouldn't designers make the future itself 

intelligent, instead of just the textiles?

Manifold of Labeledby – 3D print on stretch fabric.

E-textile drawings found in the Fashion Tech Farm

Two Angry e-textile critics – electrified.

About designers working in the Fashion tech Farm: 

Jessica & Fabienne - https://www.labeledby.com/

Mission Statement:

We believe, as designers, it’s our duty to inspire, 

question the status quo, and bring history and future 

to the present while sharing this with society. 

Craftsmanship translated to the 3D printer, thus 

exploring the 3D printer by pushing the boundaries.

Smocking by 3D printing on textiles. The tension in 

the textile will reshape the surface into manifolds.

This technique is used for creating unexpected 

esthetics for fashion.

Swatch Exchange Magic 5

Editor Contrechoc

Explorations of families of e-textile swatch concepts.

The magic of the illusion of efficient textile production.



What is efficient: something rectangular.

What is orderly: something rectangular.

What can we trust: something rectangular.

What can we oversee: something rectangular.

What can we make: something rectangular.

What can we produce: something rectangular.

Knitting and weaving can be done by hand. 

Made by hand - but wait, the illusion is - nearly made by a machine.

The hand as a machine, so cleverly regular!

Improving your technique until your hand and you are more mechanical than a machine.

2013 Matrix - Maurin Donneaud & Laurent Malterre - knitting


2014 breadboard Irene Posch & Ebru Kurbak  knitting


014 pattern keyboard - Claire Williams & Wendy Van Wynsberghe - knitting


2014 pressure switch knit - Katharina Bredies, Pauline Vierne - knitting


2016 circuit knitting - Jesse Seay - knitting


2016 circuit knitting - Jesse Seay - knitting


2015 weaved matrix - Maurin Donneaud - woven


Knittings, but 3D, irregular, triangular symmetry, circular symmetry, donuts, Klein Bottles (?), surface crossings

Compare this to the anti production: making all 25 e-textile 

swatches different…

Beam Contrechoc:


But this kind of “anti-production” poses a problem:

All e-textile swatches are different.

Probably you like the one you didn’t get.

Differences are created in the community

Contribution by Ido van Blijdesteijn

Contribution by hannah perner-wilson