Pandemic (Editor Contrechoc)
Pixelated Editor Leonor Faber-Jonker
Two images, one found online, one in the street, like a real-life memory game.
I. Beaded skull from Cameroon in Paris
II. Sushi advertisement in a Rotterdam suburb
Swatch Exchange Magic 6
The magic of the illusion of INefficient e-textile production.
The regular brings you a feeling of security by control.
Repetition is confirmation.
You can do it!
Because you can do it, people can rely on you.
Because people can rely on you, they can do it.
Spreading out reliability.
Management of production.
The idea of lost time.
But then we become robots trying to avoid “losing time”.
We produce by reproducing.
Reproduction of production to save time and resources.
The copies of copies of copies.
Every copying gives rise to errors.
The original authenticity is long lost.
Production can be sped up even further.
3D printing, lasercutting!
By speeding up production, you can buy more and more.
Which means throwing away more and more.
Making the mess we are currently in.
Maybe that is why we encounter also “irregular” e-textile
Let’s find examples.
Svenja Keune swatchbook 2015
We cannot find these on the site for the e-textile swatches because these online pages don’t show “all the swatches”.
We have to investigate into the real swatch books…
How scary the real, the not the screen, …do I have to wear gloves? Do I really have to turn the pages of this real swatch book and “touch” these irregular swatches?
And why “illusion”, well, these designers are quite skilled, they can give you the illusion the swatch is irregular and produce exactly the same one after the other…..
Beaded tilt sensor
Anthropocene- Zonenkarte 2021, Contribution Alexx Meidam
Publication Textiles 6: The Code .
Text is code.
Code is a program.
Programming is controlling.
Controlling 3D printing for example.
Loe Feijs, Mathematician in Residence in the Fashion Tech Farm realized a coded text controlling the manifolds on the garments of Labeled.by.
Loe Feijs published this text – code on one of the garments. This garment publishing the code was not on the garments which are printed upon, but behind these– and upside down.
Looking at this upside down dress… You
see some text, but is it all the text. And is text experienced as text when it is difficult
Infinity of the Artificial Skin designed by LABELEDBY, 3D printed on fabric – coding - Loe Feijs
Thus the question becomes: is half readable text
more or less interesting than readable text?
Readable text is – in the end – always
disappointing. A text is just a shallow refection of
reality. It became a text or a code, by leaving out
so many details. Not only that. Text is also
suggesting more than it can deliver.
Maybe it is seen as a disadvantage for
“ongarment” publication that:
1. The text is cut off by seams
2. The text is not visible from 1 perspective,
you have to run around the garment to
3. The wearer cannot read it – it should be
printed upside down.
4. The book is always flat, say ironed - while
the garment can be crumpled, folded,
I would like to state that the book as object to be
1. Suggest clearness of the text, while a text
is inherently not clear, open to
2. Suggest a text should be read from start
to finish, while many writers use flash
3. Is closed and thus unreadable most of the
time (or online: not shown in the
browser), while a garment being worn is
always “an open book”.
4. Even if you have read the text, the
question remains if this text is completely
For example, this text:
Air Quality detector
Suggest already quite a lot:
A measurement of “quality” for air. While the
instrument “just” provides numbers.
Then: “a precision instrument” – that remains to
be seen, given the price: 25 euro’s…while other
CO2 sensors are maybe as high as 1000 euro’s?
What is the meaning of the imprinted “precision”…
A third piece of text: “Made in China”, might be
true, but China is “big”, “vast”, “huge”…maybe this
indication of place is “true” but not very precise…
Admitted: the instrument was claimed to be a
precision instrument for air quality, not the precise
place of fabrication.
Summing up the issues of this episode 6: on text
Editor Marina Toeters
Citaten uit de Fashion Tech Farm Population:
26: My smart high heels are as long as my personal IQ.
27: With the latest developments my intelligent outfit
will be doing the visiting of receptions and parties.
The smart accessories trained in smalltalk are highly
entertaining. My dress told me the other e-garments,
didn't even notice my absence.
28: I brain washed my trousers too often, now the
zipper has memory loss.
29: It is great fun to create garments with the
Arduino. But now this microcontroller itself feels
naked and begs to be dressed!
30: Niet de athleet, maar mijn generative sportswear
heeft een medaille gewonnen tijdens de Tokyo
olympics. Jammer genoeg mochten alleen dubbel
gevaccineerde sneakers het event bijwonen.
Two of the most extremely angry e-textile critics in
the Fashion Tech Farm.
About designers working in the Fashion tech Farm:
Loe Feijs - Mathematician in Residence
Loe works on algorithms, for example he investigated ways to program paintings of Mondrian.
Textile patterns like Pied de Poule were described by Loe Feijs in a recursive fractal like manner,
and the results were materialized by Marina Toeters in laser engravings and sublimation prints.
Loe also programs the manifolds which results from 3D printing on stretch fabrics by Labeledby
glitches in the fabric of reality
Disastrous Ambitions of an Old Man before the Pandemic 1
Contribution from Ojisan
You see, it was 2018. It was before the pandemic. We were so young and naive in those innocent days. To prove we were young we started folding like every designer. Folding is a hype. Everything folded saves the world more than whatever is not folded. This will last for a few years, after the world must be saved by some other hype, like knitting.
For example. We started with a bit of folding.
But then frenzy got the upper hand.
We bought a mixer. A nice bowl.
We liked colors also back then…Pink….
Mixing flour. Don’t forget the sugar – this hidden killer of humankind.
Yellow…But then the colors changed dramatically. This should have been a warning.
We started breaking eggs. Breaking eggs was already an omen.
We put the dough into the folding. We mixed and mixed and mixed.
The folding was carefully dripped into folding into the oven.
We made the Herringbone Folding.
We should have stopped there. It should have been more than enough.
Here we should have stopped…don’t you think?
But no… we went on.
But the backside? The backside was the blackside.
We waited. The smell was kind of ok….we thought.
It tasted marvelously …. burnt.
No learning without making mistakes.
It was in those days before the pandemic when you could stay with friends the whole night.
But It looked….terrible, horrible, disastrous…
Later, we tried this also with chocolate.
Warning from the editors: The Trade-Plough cannot not assume any responsibility if you try this experiment yourself at home. Folding, although saving the world can be stressful and backing cakes can lead to overeating. Overeating is the hidden disaster of the world. If everybody gains a mere 10% in weight the number of people remains the same but there is suddenly about one billion people more human fat on the Earth. Actually, we are about 30% more obese and added to that 20% longer in height, and live 50% longer than ever before in history. So population growth should be multiplied by 50%-100%...
Contribution by Ido van Blijdesteijn
Contribution by hannah perner-wilson