Pixelated                                                                                                                                                                 Editor Leonor Faber-Jonker

Two images, one found online, one in the street, like a real-life memory game.

    I.    Beaded skull from Cameroon in Paris

    II.    Sushi advertisement in a Rotterdam suburb

Swatch Exchange Magic 6

Editor Contrechoc

The magic of the illusion of INefficient e-textile production.

The regular brings you a feeling of security by control.

Repetition is confirmation.

You can do it!

Because you can do it, people can rely on you.

Because people can rely on you, they can do it.

Spreading out reliability.

Production production!

Management of production.

The idea of lost time.

But then we become robots trying to avoid “losing time”.

We produce by reproducing.

Reproduction of production to save time and resources.

The copies of copies of copies.

Every copying gives rise to errors.

The original authenticity is long lost.

Production can be sped up even further.

3D printing, lasercutting!

By speeding up production, you can buy more and more.

Which means throwing away more and more.

Making the mess we are currently in.

Maybe that is why we encounter also “irregular” e-textile 


Let’s find examples.

Pauline Vierne

We cannot find these on the site for the e-textile swatches because these online pages don’t show “all the swatches”.

We have to investigate into the real swatch books…

How scary the real, the not the screen, …do I have to wear gloves? Do I really have to turn the pages of this real swatch book and “touch” these irregular swatches?

And why “illusion”, well, these designers are quite skilled, they can give you the illusion the swatch is irregular and produce exactly the same one after the other…..

Mika Satomi swatchbook 2013



crochet accelerometer

With a stone inside a crochet…

swatchbook 2014



Hannah Perner-Wilson


swatchbook 2013


Hannah Perner-Wilson

Beaded tilt sensor

swatchbook 2020


Liza Stark

Dip knits

swatchbook 2014


Mag Grant

Sound scales

Anthropocene- Zonenkarte 2021, Contribution Alexx Meidam

Simulacrum 6, Banana peel, Editor Leonor Faber-Jonker

Peter en Willemien Bulthuis, secretaris generaal van het instituut voor nieuwe Romantiek 1974, Editor Woody van Amen

Panorama                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Editor Leonor Faber-Jonker

Venice through the eyes of 11-year-old me, 1998

Early Works, Reinier Lucassen Pin-up, 1964, acrylverf op doek, rijkscollectie

In Holland staat een huis, Editor Woody van Amen

Past in the present 6,                                     Editor Leonor Faber-Jonker

A snake boot, creased from wearing in the 1950s, flattened from storage 


 Publication Textiles 6: The Code .         

Editor: Contrechoc

Text is code.

Code is a program.

Programming is controlling.

Controlling making.

Controlling 3D printing for example.

Loe Feijs, Mathematician in Residence in the Fashion Tech Farm realized a coded text controlling the manifolds on the garments of Labeled.by.

Loe Feijs published this text – code on one of the garments. This garment publishing the code was not on the garments which are printed upon, but behind these– and upside down.

Looking at this upside down dress… You 

see some text, but is it all the text. And is text experienced as text when it is difficult 

to read?

Infinity of the Artificial Skin designed by LABELEDBY, 3D printed on fabric – coding - Loe Feijs

Thus the question becomes: is half readable text 

more or less interesting than readable text?

Readable text is – in the end – always 

disappointing. A text is just a shallow refection of 

reality. It became a text or a code, by leaving out 

so many details. Not only that. Text is also 

suggesting more than it can deliver.

Maybe it is seen as a disadvantage for 

“ongarment” publication that:

    1.    The text is cut off by seams

    2.    The text is not visible from 1 perspective, 

           you have to run around the garment to 

           read it.

    3.    The wearer cannot read it – it should be

           printed upside down.

    4.    The book is always flat, say ironed - while

           the garment can be crumpled, folded, 


I would like to state that the book as object to be 


    1.    Suggest clearness of the text, while a text 

            is inherently not clear, open to 


    2.    Suggest a text should be read from start 

           to finish, while many writers use flash 

           back techniques.

    3.    Is closed and thus unreadable most of the 

           time (or online: not shown in the 

           browser), while a garment being worn is 

           always “an open book”.

    4.    Even if you have read the text, the 

           question remains if this text is completely 


For example, this text:

Air Quality detector

Precision Instrument

Suggest already quite a lot:

A measurement of “quality” for air. While the 

instrument “just” provides numbers.

Then: “a precision instrument” – that remains to 

be seen, given the price: 25 euro’s…while other 

CO2 sensors are maybe as high as 1000 euro’s? 

What is the meaning of the imprinted “precision”…

A third piece of text: “Made in China”, might be 

true, but China is “big”, “vast”, “huge”…maybe this 

indication of place is “true” but not very precise…

Admitted: the instrument was claimed to be a 

precision instrument for air quality, not the precise 

place of fabrication.

Summing up the issues of this episode 6: on text 


Contribution by Bas Louter, living and working in L.A. for more than 10 years.

Editor Marina Toeters



Citaten uit de Fashion Tech Farm Population:

26: My smart high heels are as long as my personal IQ.

27: With the latest developments my intelligent outfit 

will be doing the visiting of receptions and parties. 

The smart accessories trained in smalltalk are highly 

entertaining. My dress told me the other e-garments, 

didn't even notice my absence.

28: I brain washed my trousers too often, now the 

zipper has memory loss.

29: It is great fun to create garments with the 

Arduino. But now this microcontroller itself feels 

naked and begs to be dressed!

30: Niet de athleet, maar mijn generative sportswear 

heeft een medaille gewonnen tijdens de Tokyo 

olympics. Jammer genoeg mochten alleen dubbel 

gevaccineerde sneakers het event bijwonen.

Fashion Tech Farm

Outfit: Loe Feijs - Corona Tiling of the folded surface plane.

Two of the most extremely angry e-textile critics in 

the Fashion Tech Farm.

About designers working in the Fashion tech Farm: 

Loe Feijs - Mathematician in Residence

Loe works on algorithms, for example he investigated ways to program paintings of Mondrian.

Textile patterns like Pied de Poule were described by Loe Feijs in a recursive fractal like manner,

and the results were materialized by Marina Toeters in laser engravings and sublimation prints.

Loe also programs the manifolds which results from 3D printing on stretch fabrics by Labeledby 

See http://www.tradeplough.com/episode-5.html#anchor11

glitches in the fabric of reality

Loe Feijs activity diagram

 See also Trade-Plough – Episode 6 - Publication Textiles 6

 Disastrous Ambitions of an Old Man before the Pandemic 1

Contribution from Ojisan

You see, it was 2018. It was before the pandemic. We were so young and naive in those innocent days. To prove we were young we started folding like every designer. Folding is a hype. Everything folded saves the world more than whatever is not folded. This will last for a few years, after the world must be saved by some other hype, like knitting.

For example. We started with a bit of folding. 

But then frenzy got the upper hand.

We bought a mixer. A nice bowl.

We liked colors also back then…Pink….

Mixing flour. Don’t forget the sugar – this hidden killer of humankind. 

Yellow…But then the colors changed dramatically. This should have been a warning.

We started breaking eggs. Breaking eggs was already an omen.

We put the dough into the folding. We mixed and mixed and mixed.

The folding was carefully dripped into folding into the oven.

We made the Herringbone Folding. 

 We should have stopped there. It should have been more than enough. 

Here we should have stopped…don’t you think?

But no… we went on.

But the backside? The backside was the blackside.

We waited. The smell was kind of ok….we thought.

It tasted marvelously …. burnt. 

No learning without making mistakes.

It was in those days before the pandemic when you could stay with friends the whole night.

But It looked….terrible, horrible, disastrous…

Later, we tried this also with chocolate.

Warning from the editors: The Trade-Plough cannot not assume any responsibility if you try this experiment yourself at home. Folding, although saving the world can be stressful and backing cakes can lead to overeating. Overeating is the hidden disaster of the world. If everybody gains a mere 10% in weight the number of people remains the same but there is suddenly about one billion people more human fat on the Earth. Actually, we are about 30% more obese and added to that 20% longer in height, and live 50% longer than ever before in history. So population growth should be multiplied by 50%-100%...

Contribution by Ido van Blijdesteijn

Contribution by Woody van Amen

Contribution by hannah perner-wilson